Staring across at the sea of fellow street fair-goers, I felt a sense of amazement and how many people were as crazy as me and willing to bear the uncomfortable heat to venture down this long. closed stretch of road. The Glebe Street Fair was on once again  for the 26th time but this was the first time I had visited and it was a definitely and fun and foodful experience even in the sweltering heat. The 2 rows of stalls came in all sorts of shapes and sizes and there were many fascinating products on display.

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Nooo I did not do that spillage! I only just got there…*hic*

Where is King’s Vault… No, seriously where is King’s Vault? Was what Chocolatesuze and myself were asking each other while rushing along the sidewalk until finally we saw the big burly bouncer and simple but elegant set up in the old ex-art gallery. This pop up bar is one of the new trends in the fooding world where a group of strangers become friends over good wine, hearty food and lively conversation.

Click Here to unlock the King’s Vault!

Dining at Universal Restaurant was certainly memorable in respect of the originality in the peculiar combination of flavours and an exquisite culinary perspective, but my own personal belief in ‘value for money’ was stretched thin because I found it dauntingly hard to justify the premium prices for the not-so-premium sizing.

The service was precise and attentive, it was clear that the waiters are well-versed in the construction and preparation of dishes on the menu; I commend the knowledgeable sommelier as he assisted us in navigating and picking out our wine from the impressive selection, however it was the pompous demeanour that we were met with from a waiter that was off-putting and soured my experience.

With the mercury hitting 35 degrees Celsius (the car measured 42 degrees to my disbelief) and humidity that would easily match Thailand. Before I recount the dishes that we ordered, it should be noted that there is no distinction between an entrée and mains in the menu.

The menu is simply an ascending list that starts from ‘light’ to the most ‘heavy’ dish. The waiter recommended that we order two dishes from the ‘light’ range and one from the ‘heavy’ range per person as the sizing is more-or-less the same. Instead, we decided to order a light and heavy dish per person with the intent in ordering desserts to share.

L and R: Fuji Mama and Stormy Night.

Here Comes The Food

‘Light’ Dishes

Sansho Beef Tataki, Miso Pickled Seaweed, Taro, Shiso and Wasabi Tobiko ($24): The Wasabi Tobiko or flying fish roe sits on top of a thinly sliced Taro, it adds a hint of saltiness to the overall dish and an interesting addition to a classic Beef Tataki that is normally served with much plainer accompaniments. The Beef Tataki has been spiced with Sansho, which gives a subtle tang and gives leaves a slight tingle on the tongue. Overall, this dish was quite enjoyable as the beef was beautifully cooked and had a wonderful combination of flavours that could be summed as: tangy, sweet and sour.

Hiramasa Kingfish, Sea Urchin and Nori Tempura, Orange Ponzu ($26): The pieces of Hiramasa Kingfish had been wrapped in seaweed, lathered with tempura batter and then deep fried. The Kingfish was firm and cooked to a creamy-white texture. There is discussion amongst sustainable seafood enthusiasts that farming this particular fish results in higher fat content, cleaner flavour and firmer texture than the wild Yellowtail Kingfish. I haven’t personally tried the wild variant, but no doubt there was a sweetness to the fish that was enjoyable.

Veal Sweetbread Fritters, Barrel Aged Feta, Pancetta, Roasted Hazelnut Salad ($26): The Veal Sweetbread Fritters were delicate and had a tender texture when dissected. The flavour first came out similar to pate – a mute aftertaste. However, when it was combined with the other components, it resulted in an enjoyable harmony of flavours. My favourite part of this dish was the roasted Hazelnuts littered throughout the salad that were addictive and I soon found myself picking through the salad just to eat the Hazelnuts.

‘Heavy’ Dishes

Surface Ripened Goat Cheese, Mushroom Tortellini, Gruyere Chantilly ($26): No doubt a homage to cheese from the description of the dish, when it was presented, the first thing that came to my mind was ‘heart-clogging’. The intricate flavours of the different cheeses resulted in a dish that was very rich and heavy. The distasteful part of the dish was the presentation itself: the tortellini bathed in a pool of melted cheese. However, the Mushroom Tortellini was very good, the comforting aroma and flavour of mushroom wafted from a cut piece of tortellini and helped to cut through the powerful sauce it was served in.

Steamed Pink Snapper, Roasted Rice, White Asparagus and Green Bean Sambal ($28): ‘Here try this’, I was told when an inconspicuous green stick-like vegetable was passed to me. As I put it into my mouth I said that it tasted like a chinese shallot, until literally a second later I found out it was the Green Bean Sambal as it exploded in my mouth. It was certainly a new experience that left an impression. The dish was described to me as lacking flavour apart from a hint of mild chilli.

Roasted Murray Cod, Braised Fennel and Celery, Anchovy and Cavolo Nero Salsa ($29)

Grilled Duck Liver, Pearl Barley, Roasted Walnuts and Pomegranate ($26): Two pieces of delicate duck liver are perched on top of a bed of Pearl Barley, Roasted Walnuts and Pomegranate. The flavours are subtle and an interesting combination as the Duck Liver has a buttery taste and velvety texture that is contrasted with the tart flavour from the Pomegranate and defined crunch from the Walnuts. I only wished that there was another piece of duck liver.

Galangal and Green Chilli Wagyu Beef Shin, Prawn Floss, Pea Eggplants and Sweet Corn ($29): Our waiter explained that the Wagyu Beef Shin had been slow-cooked for eight hours prior to serving in a jungle curry mixture and finally slow-roasted when ordered. The flavour of the broth with its distinctive sour, galangal and prawn floss flavours was very similar to tom yum goong. One of my friends remarked that it was like a more hardcore and intense version of beef pho, I couldn’t agree anymore as there was an invigorating beef aroma and taste infused into the broth. The Wagyu Beef Shin was fragile and fell apart gracefully; a popular dish amongst patrons that the waiter suggested as the unofficial signature dish of Universal.

Dessert

‘Double Take’ ($18): Bleu de Basque and Walnut Kataifi Pastry, Spiced Pear Relish. The Bleu de Basque is a blue cheese with bluish-grey veins made from sheep’s milk and has a semi-firm texture, the flavour is bold and full, however there is an enjoyable creamy and faintly sweet aftertaste. Walnut adds a light nutty flavour to the crisp and delicate Kataifi Pastry.

‘Raspberry Ripple’ ($18): Vanilla Yoghurt Cream, Raspberries and Meringue. This was my favourite dessert out of our choices as it was light and indulgent. The raspberries added a sour element to the sweetness of the vanilla and was an interesting combination that was enjoyable. The Meringue component is probably the best I’ve ever had; it was airy and not overbearingly sweet, maybe the reason why I ate more than half of this dessert myself.

Timberrrrrr

The Raspberry Ripple looked so good, the whole table next to us ordered it.

‘Black Beauty’ ($18): Caraibe Chocolate Mousse, Chocolate Sacher Cake, Pedro Ximenez Jelly, Candied Cumquats. Our waiter informs us that the Candied Cumquats have been replaced with Cherries for tonight, that’s ok with us. Cutting through the smooth mousse, the taste was subtle and velvety. There was a transition from sour to bitter hints of chocolate, which was not too rich. I found the cherries conspicuous; did they come out of a can? I can’t tell for sure. In retrospect, perhaps I should have ordered another dessert as I have a feeling that the Candied Cumquats that normally accompany the dish would change my overall impression of it.

Overall, Universal was a new experience in different spices and a lesson in the intricate layers of distinctive flavours that one could inspire into a dish. Whilst it has certainly broadened my appreciation of tastes that have been inspired by the flavours of the world, the insights of Christine Manfield’s gastronomic influences from personal experiences and impressions come at a price.

Universal Restaurant

DINNER – Monday to Saturday from 6pm

LUNCH – Friday from 12 noon

Republic 2 Courtyard Palmer Street (between Burton and Liverpool streets)
Darlinghurst 2010
Phone: (+612) 9331 0709
Fax: (+612) 9331 1237 eat@universalrestaurant.com

Note: Universal Restaurant does not have a BYO policy.

Posted by D